Demons in as well! The Setsubun Festival at Kimpusen-ji Temple.
'Onibi Festival' where even the demons dance joyfully.

First, let me introduce the Kimpusen-ji Temple.

Kimpusen-ji Temple

Kimpusen-ji is the head temple of Shugendo, located halfway up the Yoshino Mountain, in Nara Prefecture, which is known for cherry blossom.
Proud of its 1300-year history, the main hall "Zaodo" is a national treasure and is also recognized as a World Heritage site.

You can get off at Yoshino Station on the Kintetsu line and climb up Yoshino Mountain on foot. Right near the station, you can take a ropeway, or you can also choose to climb on your own using the side trail.
Please note that there is no parking lot at Kimpusen-ji Temple.

Picture 2_Spectacular view of Yoshino Mountain

As you trek along the mountain path enjoying the stunning views of Yoshino, you'll arrive at Kimpusen-ji Temple in about 30 minutes.
On a January afternoon with a clear blue sky and a light snowfall, the temple ground was filled with a serene and pure atmosphere.

Picture 3_Zaodo

You offer incense and put your hands together in the main hall. This magnificent structure, which is 34 meters tall, is said to be second biggest in size only to the Todai-ji Great Buddha Hall in Nara.

From the tall ceiling, a gigantic red lantern with the characters for "Zaodo" hangs impressively! Its size is about twice as big as the large balls used in the ball-rolling races in elementary school sports festivals, making it incredibly impressive.

On the shelf in front, talismans and homa sticks are displayed. To the right, you can find fortune slips, and on the left counter, you can get amulets and Goshuin (temple stamp).

While the three main deities are hidden from public view, there are many other enshrined statues placed in the main hall. Upon paying the admission fee, you can explore the interior of the main hall (800 yen for adults).

Picture 4_ Zaodo (Latern)

The Founder of Kimpusen-ji Temple, En no Gyoja, and the Three Main Deities

Kimpusen-ji Temple was founded by En no Gyōja, also known as En no Ozunu, who is considered the patriarch of the Shugendo.

During the ancient Nara period, En no Gyōja is said to have had a revelation of Kongō Zaō Daigongen at Sanjyogatake, the summit of Kimpusen, and became the main deity of Shugendo. The appearance of the deity was curved into a wild cherry tree and was enshrined in Mount Yoshino. It is said to mark the beginning of Kimpusen-ji Temple.
The main deities of the temple are the Buddha Shakyamuni, Senju Kannon (Thousand-Armed Kannon), and Maitreya Bodhisattva.

These sacred statues, kept hidden from public view, are massive about 7 meters tall, painted in a deep blue-black hue. They are depicted with fierce and wrathful expressions, intended to shield people from diseases and disasters in a tumultuous world. Despite their intimidating appearance, they are believed to be embodiments of compassion and benevolence.

Allow me to introduce you to one of the three major events at Kimpusen-ji Temple, the Setsubun-e "Onibi Festival".

This festival originated from the legend where En no Gyōja, the founder of Kimpusen-ji Temple, changed wild demons using the power of Buddhist teachings.

The Setsubun-e "Onibi Festival"

The general flow of the festival is as follows.

First, the event begins inside the main hall where ascetics, or Shugenja, recite sutras as an expression of gratitude and a way to ward off evil.

Then, attendees enter the main hall to receive blessings. But soon, the red, blue, and black demons who have been chased away from various places all over Japan in Setsubun, start wandering inside the hall, holding their metal rods.

These mischievous demons lay down, tease the Shugenja, and even use the cameras of the attendees without permission, causing all sorts of playful havoc.

As the festival progresses, the demons are surrounded by the Shugendo practitioners and lose their evil power due to the chanting of sutras and the scattering of beans by the participants. In the end, they surrender, and grovel on tatami mats covered with scattered beans.

The stage then shifts to outdoor. A grand Goma (fire ritual) is ignited. The demons who have been chaged dance around the flames, expressing their joy of joining the path of Buddha.

At last, both members in the temple and the demons shout "Fuku wa uchi! Oni mo uchi!" (Good fortune in! Demons in too!), as they toss beans filled in small bags to the participants.

Picture 5_Grounds of Kimpusen-ji Temple

A distinctive feature of the Setsubun-e at this temple is the approach of "embracing and changing the demons" rather than "driving them away."

According to members in the temple, the current scenario of the Setsubun-e that takes place at Kimpusen-ji Temple was developed by the temple's priests after the Showa era.

However, the history of the temple's association with demons dates back much further, stemming from tales related to its founder, En no Gyōja.

En no Gyōja Chanｇing the Demon Couple

Picture 6 – The former demon (Zenki) and the latter demon (Goki) following En no Gyōja
The male demon, Zenki, carries an iron axe, while his wife, Goki, holds a water jar.
[From Katsushika Hokusai's "Hokusai Gafu, Middle Volume (Hokusai Gafu Chūkan)", stored at the International Research Center for Japanese Studies]

The Setsubun-e at Kimpusen-ji Temple is deeply rooted in the legend of En no Gyōja's sermonizing and subsequent changing the demon couple, as narrated below:

Long ago, the mountains of Ikoma were home to a demon couple known as Zenki and Goki. These demons used to abduct and eat children of human beings. En no Gyōja hid the youngest of the demon couple's five children. When the distraught demon parents discovered this, Gyōja explained to them the pain and suffering that parents undergo when their children are taken away from them.

Touched by Gyōja's teachings, the demon couple repented their wrongdoings. They thereafter became disciples of En no Gyōja and faithfully followed him.
This tale can truly be seen as the foundation for Setsubun-e tradition at Kimpusen-ji Temple.

The Origin of Setsubun: The Hero of Justice "Hososhi", but was Once Regarded As a Demon

Picture 7: The Tsuina Hososhi Ritual
Hososhi, with his four eyes, expels epidemics, accompanied by a young boy called Shinshi. Initially a hero of justice, he eventually came to be regarded as a demon himself.
[From Katsushika Hokusai's "Annual Events of the Miyako (Miyako Nenchū Gyōji Gajō)", stored at the International Research Center for Japanese Studies]

Let's delve into why Setsubun, a tradition of driving away demons started and its origins.

It is believed that the origin of Setsubun is a custom known as "Tsuina," practiced since the Heian period.

Originating from ancient China, the ceremony featured an individual known as "Hososhi." Wearing a terrifying mask with four golden eyes and armed with a shield and spear, Hososhi's role was to drive away invisible epidemics and calamities.

In fact, Hososhi was a hero of justice! However, those enemies - the diseases and calamities - were intangible.
Over time, the memory of these unseen enemy faded. Instead, due to his terrifying appearance, Hososhi began to be perceived as the "evil demon" to be expelled.

Today, the demon we drive away during Setsubun was once a hero of justice.
It is really a pity to say so.

By the way, the Tsuina ritual of Setsubun, featuring Hososhi, is still practiced today. Yoshida Shrine in Kyoto is particularly famous for this ceremony.

Over time, the demons driven away during Setsubun have undergone changes in accordance with shifts in eras and cultures.

Origin of the Demon

The etymology of the term "oni" is believed to stem from the word "onu" or "on," meaning something concealed or a terrifying entity of the unknown. Over time, this term evolved into "Oni," and the contemporary kanji character for "demon" was associated with it.

Initially, "Oni" referred to intangible threats like epidemics or calamities. However, with time passing by, it came to refer to:

・Malice and jealousy within humans
・Immigrants from the mainland or outsiders from beyond the village

"Oni" became a symbol of fear for things that were heterogeneous and difficult to accept

To embrace such demons was to accept “heterogeneous things.”

Embracing the Demon

Kimpusen-ji temple is the temple of Shugendo.

Shugendo is a Japanese religion to that incorporates elements of various religions such as esoteric Buddhism, Taoism, and On-yo-do to worship the nature.

Japan has traditionally regarded heterogeneous things as “demons” and has protected safety by exorcising them outside the community.

However, rather than driving away demons as evil, the attitude of seeking a way to live together like En no Gyōja did is in line with the spirit of Shugendo, and I felt that it was embodied in today’s Setsubun festival at Kinpusenji Temple.

“Oni mo uchi” means to face the weakness and ugliness of human beings who created demons and to have a courageous attitude to figure out the essence of invisible things.

Summary: What is the biggest attraction of Kinpusenji Temple?

How was it?

We would like to express our sincere gratitude to the temple staff who kindly taught us about Setsubun-e and Shugendo despite their busy schedule.

Personally, I feel that the biggest attraction of Kinpusenji Temple is its people.

I had a preconceived notion that the temple would be strict due to the image of Shugendo and Yamabushi, but when I actually visited, the temple staff were all heartkinded and friendly.

There are many things to see at the temple, such as the national treasure Zaodo, the statues of three main deities, and events such as Setsubun-e. However, I was impressed by their hospitality that they warmly welcome both demons and visitors.

When you visit Yoshino, please be sure to visit Kinpusenji Temple.

Picture 8_ Kinpusenji Temple