Rinzai Sect Special

Visiting Engakuji and Kenchoji

Author：Miharu Kaneko

1. Introduction

With easy access from the city center, Kamakura is popular as a tourist destination featured on TV specials. In addition, since it was the setting for The 13 Lords of the Shogun, the taiga drama of last year, I feel like it’s been featured in various TV programs and travel magazines.
However, the reality is that such media only focus on the good points and do not really understand what it’s really like there.
Today, I would like to visit two of Kamakura's most iconic temples, Engakuji and Kenchoji, and report on what I liked and what was disappointing.

2. Engakuji

(1) About Engakuji Temple

Located in Kita-Kamakura, Engakuji is the head temple of the Engakuji school of the Rinzai sect and is ranked as the second of Kamakura's five temples.
It was built by Tokimune Hojo, the 8th regent of the Kamakura Shogunate, to welcome the Chinese monk Mugaku Sogen.
By building Engakuji Temple, Tokimune hoped to spread Zen and stabilize the country. Furthermore, it served as a place of mourning for those who died during the Mongol invasion.

(2) What I Liked

Firstly, it is extremely accessible, being just a one-minute walk from Kita-Kamakura Station. The road to Engakuji is flat, so just follow the signs and you'll be there in no time. There's no need to even open Google Maps to check.

The second point that I thought was amazing was the washroom and rest area near the entrance.
In particular, the washroom was very clean. When someone who went to the bathroom was impressed and said, “Wow, it's so clean!” and I simultaneously felt the same way.
In addition to a multifunctional washroom that was wheelchair accessible, they even have a diaper changing area. I also found it easy to use the diaper changing space, which was located in the hallway so that people going to the washroom could use it without hesitation. With consideration to visitors of all ages, I could feel the thoughtfulness of the temple.
Also, the rest area right next to the washroom was cleverly designed. It was a bright and open space with chairs where people could sit freely.

The third good thing is that you can enjoy matcha tea at a place called Butsunichian inside the temple grounds. To enter Butsunichian, an additional admission fee is required, albeit at a reasonable price of 100 yen. Matcha is 600 yen, which can be enjoyed on the veranda or in the garden. On top of hot matcha, they also offer cold matcha (summer only), hot coffee, and iced coffee (summer only), which I thought was very considerate to foreign tourists.
I actually had some cold matcha, which was very good since it was a hot day. I was also happy that it came with rakugan, a candy made from hardened sugar, to go with the matcha. It was from Toshimaya, which is famous for its Hato Sablé.

(3) What Was Disappointing

The first thing that disappointed me was the content of the pamphlet.
The pamphlet was folded in three and contained a layout map of the temple grounds, but the order of the numbers assigned to each building was a mystery. It didn't seem like they were numbered according to the route from the entrance nor in order from the north.
The temple grounds are large, so I would have appreciated it if it was written according to the route.

The second thing that disappointed me was the Bentendo teahouse.
The path to Bentendo was a tough one with stairs (almost like climbing a mountain). However, when I actually arrived, the bento boxes were sold out. As someone who came up the mountain for a meal only to see that the food was sold out, it was tough.
If they’re sold out, I think it would be a good idea to put a notice under the stairs.

The third thing that disappointed me was the large bell called the Ogane.
The moment I saw it, the spider webs stood out to me. I thought to myself, “Ogane is supposed to be a national treasure – has it not been taken care of that much?” Engakuji is a temple with a long history. All other parts of the temple grounds were thoroughly cleaned. Therefore, the spider web on the Ogane made it feel that something was off.
Perhaps there is a rule that says, “Do not kill spiders." As I also grew up with my parents telling me, “Don't kill spiders in the morning," I can understand this.
However, as it was actually very unpleasant, it left a bad impression on me. For those who value small living things, it may not be a concern to them.

(4) Others

Although some points overlap with what I have already written, a detailed review is included below:

※Information as of June 2023.
※Please treat this as a reference only, as things are subject to change.

5) Summary

As a temple that serves as an iconic tourist destination, I thought it was great that it was designed with consideration for various visitors. I think the design of the washroom near the entrance symbolizes this.
On the other hand, there are stairs here and there, so if you are not confident in your legs or are bringing a baby with you, you may restricted in terms of where you can visit the shrine.
In particular, note that there are stairs on the way to Bentendo and Ogane.

3. Kenchoji

(1) About Kenchoji Temple

Located in Kita-Kamakura, Kenchoji Temple is the head temple of the Kenchoji school of Rinzai sect and is ranked as the first of Kamakura's five temples.
Kenchoji Temple was built as Japan's first Zen temple by Tokiyori Hojo, the fifth regent of the Kamakura Shogunate.
There are many things to see in the vast temple grounds, but the large main gate and the ceiling paintings of the hall are definitely worth seeing.

(2) What I Liked

The first thing that I thought was amazing was the hojo chamber garden.
Hojo features a style in which you take off your shoes in a shoe box before going up, and there was a notice posted along the lines of "beware of theft." Visitors who felt anxious were able to carry it around in a plastic bag, which showed how thoughtful they were.
The hojo garden has a wonderful view and is worth seeing. There were chairs for resting along the veranda. It was a perfect space to take a break while admiring the garden and taking photos.

The second thing I liked was the karamon gate, which is the main gate of the hojo.
The conservation and repair work was apparently completed in 2011, with gold decorations which made it glitter.
There were also many lotus pots placed in front of the karamon gate. I think it would be very beautiful once the flowers started blooming.

The third thing that appealed to me was the view from Hansobo.
Hansobo is a spiritual spot located on the mountain behind Kenchoji Temple.
The view was very good, with the streets of Kamakura and the sea spreading out before you. I also liked the fact that it wasn't too crowded. There were so many overwhelming tengu statues around Hansobo.

(3) What Was Disappointing

The view from Hansobo was very nice, but I had to jump through some hoops before I got there.
First of all, the route along the way was difficult to understand. The road split into two near a building called Shojuan, but I almost got lost since there was no sign (I ended up turning where I shouldn't have).
A foreign tourist who was walking after me also made the same mistake and made a U-turn, so I think it would be nice to have a sign to guide the way.

Secondly, I would've liked to know more about the approximate time it takes to get to Hansobo. At one place, I found a sign with an estimated time until arrival, but after that, I had no idea how many kilometers were left.
I could see people climbing up the mountain while saying to each other, "How much longer? I might just give up if this keeps going." Among them, there was a woman who asked her husband, "If you stop hearing a voice behind you, could you please turn around? I might have collapsed on the way."
Along the way, I felt it would be helpful to write down in small increments how many minutes it would take to get there and how many kilometers are left.

Thirdly, as we headed further towards the summit from Hansobo, there was a sign that read "Beware of suspicious persons." However, even if you are warned to do so after actually climbing the mountain, it'll be already too late.
As I was climbing alone as a woman, I felt a little scared because there was no signal near the top of the mountain and the road was just wide enough for one person to pass another.
If you are climbing as a woman, I think it'd be better to go with more than one person.

(4) Others

Although some points overlap with what I have already written, a detailed review is included below:

※Similar to Engakuji Temple, this information is as of June 2023.
※Please treat this as a reference only, as things are subject to change.

(5) Summary

With the style of an iconic Kamakura temple, each building has its own unique flavor. Also, since the temple grounds are large, I think it'd be great to take your time and enjoy the view.
It takes physical strength to go to Hansobo, which is located at the innermost part of Kenchoji Temple. However, if your legs and back are healthy, I think it's worth going. The view from Hansobo is beautiful, and I think you'll not only receive blessings but also a sense of accomplishment.

4 Conclusion

Engakuji and Kenchoji, which I visited this time, are located in the area called Kita-Kamakura. To wrap up, I would like to write about what I felt after actually visiting Kita-Kamakura.
First, here are some things to keep in mind when sightseeing. Although there are parking lots throughout the area, the surrounding roads are congested. It may be better to go by train during the busy season.
However, if you go by train, Kita-Kamakura Station does not have a fare adjustment machine at the west exit, so you will have to go to the east exit if you do not have enough money. I recommend charging your card in advance to avoid running out of funds.
The roads around Kita-Kamakura Station were often uneven and narrow in many places.
Considering that there are not many diaper changing spaces or nursing rooms, I feel that Kita-Kamakura is a very difficult area to bring your baby to. In fact, I don't think I met many families with babies. On the other hand, there were many students on school trips, couples, and middle-aged and older people. With many touristy shops lined up, you can feel the history and culture, so I think it will be popular among the average age group.
Although Kita-Kamakura Station is a much smaller station compared to Kamakura Station, it has a very nice atmosphere. In addition to Engakuji and Kenchoji, there are also many other famous temples, so be sure to the some time to visit them.

※Permission is required from the temple for photos, which were not used here since I was unable to obtain permission due to time constraints.