Special Feature on Plum Blossoms

The place associated with Sugawara no Michizane, Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine

Author：Tsuki

Hello everyone! My name is Tsuki.
I usually work as a part-time writer.

Today, I would like to introduce you to Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine in Fujiidera City, Osaka Prefecture.
It is a shrine associated with Sugawara no Michizane, and is known as a plum spot in Osaka.

Speaking of Tenmangu Shrine, although Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto City is famous, Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine is also a very historic shrine.
I would like to explain what kind of shrine Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine is and its relationship with plums.

I hope you can stay with me until the end!!

Basic Information about Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine

Enshrined Deities:
　Sugawara no Michizanekou
　Ame-no-Hohi-no-Mikoto
　Kakujunikou

About the Enshrined Deities:
Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine was originally established as the guardian for Haji-uji. Later, Fujiwara no Michizane, a descendant of the Haji-uji, was added as an enshrined deity, and thus became a Tenmangu shrine.
※The Haji-uji refers to a clan that was involved in producing clay figures (haniwa), constructing mausoleums, and performing funeral rites for great kings in ancient times. In the Heian period, they changed their name and split into other clans, such as the Sugawara and Akishino clans.

Now, let's delve deeper into an explanation about each deity.

●Sugawara no Michizane

He is a well-known aristocrat from the Heian period.
From a young age, he was exceptionally intelligent and was known for his rapid promotion in the imperial court due to the trust he gained from the emperor.
He was skilled in politics and was promoted to the position of the Minister of the Right.
However, the Minister of the Left, Fujiwara no Tokihira, who was envious of Michizane's success, gave false advice to Emperor Daigo. Believing these false accusations, Emperor Daigo banished Michizane to Dazaifu in Kyushu.
Michizane spent his days in Dazaifu hoping to clear his doubts and continued to devote himself to sincere seclusion. Sadly, his doubts were never cleared and he passed away at the age of 59 in Dazaifu.
However, after his death, his innocence was finally proven by the imperial court.
Because of these tales, he is still enshrined today as the "God of Learning" and the "God of Sincerity", gathering faith from many people.

●Ame-no-Hohi-no-Mikoto

Ame-no-Hohi-no-Mikoto is a child of the prominent deity in Japanese mythology, Amaterasu Omikami.
Amaterasu Omikami was watching the earthly world from the heavenly world.
Ōkuninushi no Okami, a Kunitsukami of Izumo, sent an envoy to negotiate the transfer of power after seeing that the earthly world was prospering.
The envoy was Ame-no-hohi-no-mikoto.
Ame-no-hohi-no-mikoto fell in love with Ōkuninushi no Okami and ended up living on earth despite being sent as an envoy for the transfer of power. There is an interesting episode where Ame-no-hohi-no-mikoto ends up living on earth despite being sent as an envoy for the transfer of power.
By the way, Ōkuninushi no Okami has many such episodes of being popular with women, which is why Izumo Taisha Shrine became known as a god of matchmaking.

●Kakujunikou

She is the aunt of Sugawara no Michizane.

(Historical Background)
In the 32nd year of Emperor Suinin's reign, Nomino Sukune was granted the surname of Haji-uji and the land.
The descendants of the Haji clan, Haji-uji, built the Haji Shrine in honor of their ancestor, Ame-no-Hohi-no-Mikoto, the predecessor of Nomino Sukune.
After the introduction of Buddhism to Japan, the clan temple of the Haji family, called Haji Temple, was built near the Haji-ji Shrine. This temple eventually became a Jingū-ji temple.
※A Jingū-ji refers to a temple that was built adjacent to a shrine, based on the syncretic fusion of Shinto and Buddhism, known as the Shinbutsu-shūgō.

During the Heian period, Kakujunikou resided in Haji-ji Temple, and Sugawara no Michizanekou also visited this temple.
When Sugawara no Michizane was being exiled to Dazaifu, it is said that he made a stop at this temple to bid farewell to Kakujunikou.
While on a boat traveling down the Yodo River, he composed a poem:
"Changing with the time, even the waters of Naniwa inlet become muddy; the temple of Domyoji is what I long for."
It seems he was granted permission to visit Domyoji temple.

In the first year of the Tenryaku era (947), Haji-ji Temple was renamed Domyoji and, concurrently, a Tenmangu shrine was established within the Haji Shrine.
This marks the origin of Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine.
The name "Domyoji" is derived from Sugawara no Michizane's title "Domyo."

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  The entrance has an ambient atmosphere of a temple, which might be because it once shared the precincts with Domyoji.
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  Just beyond the entrance gate lies the approach to the shrine. Since it was during the plum festival, a few stalls were set up along the way.

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  The main hall is magnificent.
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  Built in the 12th year of the Bunka era (1815), there is the oldest Noh stage in Osaka Prefecture.

Sugawara no Michizane's personal belongings

A Unique Collection in Japan! Sugawara no Michizane's personal belongings are stored.

In Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine, there are 6 personal belongings (designated as national treasures) that are believed to have been beloved by Sugawara no Michizane. You can see them in the treasure hall.

Details of the personal belongings are as follows:

• ・Ginsoukakutai 1 piece
  A band made by sewing two leather pieces together with hemp thread inserted in the core.
• ・Taimaisougekushi: 1 piece
  An ivory comb used to tie up one's bangs.
• ・Geshaku: 1 piece
  A scepter made of ivory.
• ・Saikakutsuetouzu: 1 piece
  A knife with a handle made from rhinoceros horn.
• ・Hakugadankinkyō: 1 piece
  A cast copper mirror in the shape of an eight-petal flower.
• ・Seihakujienken: 1 piece
  A round inkstone with a slight hollow in the center and pond around its circumference.

All of them were kept in very good condition and I was very surprised.
Especially for the comb, it is delicately made but none of the teeth are missing.

In addition to Sugawara no Michizanekou’s belongings, there are also exhibits related to Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine, so if you are interested, please visit the treasure hall.
However, the opening days of the treasure hall are limited and you cannot enter whenever you visit.
Please check the homepage for details, but it seems that it is open on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays during the plum festival period.

Plum garden in Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine

Sugawara no Michizanekou loved plums very much!
Every year from February to March, the Ume Matsuri (Plum Blossom Festival) is celebrated.

Behind the main hall of Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine lies a magnificent plum garden.
Here, around 800 plum trees of about 80 varieties burst into splendid bloom, and every year from February to March, the Ume Matsuri (Plum Festival) is held.
It has also been selected as one of "100 best spots for natural greenery in Osaka."

The presence of plum trees in Tenmangu shrines, including Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine, is often attributed to Sugawara no Michizanekou's deep love for them. The verse:

“The color of the plum blossoms resembles that of crimson. I wish I could apply that color to the cheeks of my beloved Ako”
is created by Sugawara no Michizanekou at the age of five.

He was known as Wakon-Kansai (Japanese spirit, Chinese learning), and he composed a waka　(Japanese poem) at the age of 5 and a Chinese poem at the age of 11.
It’s amazing that he could compose this waka at the age of 5.

When I visited around mid-February, the plum was not in full bloom, but they were beautifully blossoming, making me feel the arrival of spring.
Overall, it wasn't too crowded, allowing me to calmly explore the temple grounds.

Information nearby

Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine is located on the west side of the Domyoji Temple (a convent of the Shingon sect).
It's about 50 meters away from the Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine, and you can get there on foot.
Due to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism during the Meiji era, the Domyoji Tenmangu Shrine and the Domyoji Temple were separated from each other.

Haji no sato station

Due to its roots with the Haji clan, there's a station on the Kintetsu Line named 'Haji No Sato Station.'
The Haji clan was responsible for creating Haniwa (clay figures), constructing imperial mausoleums, and conducting funeral rituals for great kings. Consequently, there are clusters of ancient burial mounds nearby.

Summary

It’s very interesting to visit shrines and temples from different perspective after understanding their history.
Walking through the plum garden while feeling that it was loved by Sugawara no Michizanekou is very impressive. You can feel that “now” exists because of the accumulation of history.
I would like many people to visit this place in person, which was loved as the second hometown of Sugawara no Michizane